Jerusalem

Reading the news yesterday about Temple Mount in Jerusalem was upsetting and a bit surreal. Erica and I were just there on Thursday, and had observed and felt security measures throughout the Western Wall plaza and Temple Mount compound.

Western Wall plaza with Temple Mount's Dome of the Rock. 

In the foreground is the elevated walkway to the Temple Mount compound.

The Western Wall actually forms one side of the Temple Mount compound, putting Jews and Muslims side-by-side in worshiping at one of each of their most revered sites.  Inside the compound, two mosques stand out, Dome of the Rock, which many know because of its golden dome and is the Temple Mount, and Al Aqsa.  After Mecca and Medina, Temple Mount is the third most holy site in Islam.  According to the Koran, Mohammed made a nighttime journey (isra) there where he ascended to heaven (miraj).  

 

Dome of the Rock, Temple Mount  

 

An entrance to Dome of the Rock 

The site is equally important to Jews.  At Temple Mount, God created Adam, Abraham prepared to sacrifice his son, and Solomon built the First Temple that housed the Ark of the Covenant.  The demonstrations and police action reported on Sunday happened in the Temple Mount compound, with protesters securing themselves inside Al Aqsa for hours.

As non-Muslims, we could enter the Temple Mount compound only through one gate (of nine), and to access that gate we moved along an elevated, enclosed pedestrian walkway above a section of the Western Wall plaza.  Feet from the compound entrance, we found two rows of riot police shields.  They communicated an everyday preparation for potential conflict and a nonchalance about that everyday need.

Riot gear near entrance to Temple Mount compound

Inside the compound, we found a spacious tranquil square filled with tourists and worshippers, a silent fountain, cypress trees and flowers, and stunning Islamic mosaics.  As non-Muslims, we could not enter either mosque but one person in our group, a practicing Muslim from Morocco, was able to enter Al Aqsa.  The practicing distinction is important, because guards at the mosques' entries may closely question people they suspect are not Muslim or are not practicing.  

An entrance to Al Aqsa Mosque

When we exited Temple Mount (one can exit through any gate), we found police fencing a short distance away.  Seeing such security measures, especially when we knew the history of tension and violence, was unnerving.  It was also prescient.

Police fencing in Old City near entry to Western Wall plaza

Walking through the Old City of Jerusalem, which surrounds the Temple Mount compound, we discovered we felt numb about what we were seeing.  The Old City's history, embedded in the cobblestone streets and stone walls, crushed the charm of those features and squelched our interest in exploring where the streets led and what the colorful market stalls sold.  

The Old City, Jerusalem

The Old City felt weighted down by centuries of violence.  It felt heavy with blood and for what? Sunday's news gave one answer: to perpetuate distrust, injustice, and conflict.